Inheritance on a plate

For centuries, Russia has appropriated the culture of other nations, incorporating it into its own identity. One of the most affected countries is Ukraine. The list of cultural elements Russia has taken from Ukraine includes our history, our artists, and, of course, our food. As the Russian-Ukrainian war continues into its eleventh year, it’s crucial to distinguish truth from cultural theft—a crime in its own right.

One of the most contentious debates has been over the origins of borscht. Russia has long tried to convince the world that this iconic dish is a staple of its own culinary tradition. However, in the summer of 2022, a team of Ukrainian chefs and food historians successfully proved that borscht has Ukrainian roots. This recognition led to borscht being officially listed as part of Ukraine’s intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

Another globally recognized dish is Chicken Kyiv. It’s almost ironic that a dish named after Ukraine’s capital was also targeted for appropriation. However, in this case, it’s been harder for Russia to claim any legitimate connection, given the dish’s clear ties to Ukrainian culinary traditions.

Lastly, let’s talk about the beloved Ukrainian fast-food staple, the cheburek. These deep-fried turnovers, traditionally filled with minced meat and onions or sometimes salty cottage cheese with herbs, have a rich history rooted in Crimean Tatar cuisine. Yet, for years, Russia has claimed chebureks as its own. Why? The dish gained widespread popularity in the Russian Empire during the late 19th century, coinciding with the rise of mass tourism to Crimea. Following the deportation of the Crimean Tatars in the late 1940s, references to the dish’s true origins were systematically erased from encyclopedias and replaced with vague claims of it being an “Eastern” dish. This deliberate erasure is a clear example of a broader policy of cultural assimilation and historical distortion.

The removal of cultural references and the rebranding of traditions serve as reminders of the importance of preserving historical truth. Political circumstances can obscure the origins of cultural elements, causing dishes and traditions to lose their authentic identity in the public consciousness.

Why is this topic so important? Because understanding the truth helps us recognize that much of what Russia claims as its own is, in fact, borrowed or outright stolen from other nations. I’m proud of Ukraine’s rich culture and cuisine, and I want the world to appreciate and acknowledge its true origins.